Perhaps nowhere are the forces of natural erosion more tangible than at Bryce Canyon. Its wilderness of phantom-like rock spires, or hoodoos, attracts more than one million visitors a year. Many descend on trails that give hikers and horseback riders a close look at the fluted walls and sculptured pinnacles.
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The park follows the edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau. On the west are heavily forested tablelands more than 9,000 feet high; on the east are the intricately carved breaks that drop 2,000 feet to the Paria Valley. Many ephemeral streams have eaten into the plateau, forming horseshoe-shaped bowls. The largest and most striking is Bryce Amphitheater. Encompassing 6 square miles, it is the park's scenic heart.
For millions of years water has carved, as it continues to, Bryce's rugged landscape. Water may split rock as it freezes and expands in cracks—a cyclic process that occurs some 200 times a year. In summer, runoff from cloudbursts etches into the softer limestones and sluices through the deep runnels. In about 50 years the present rim will be cut back another foot. But there is more here than spectacular erosion.
In the early morning you can stand for long moments on the rim, held by the amphitheater's mysterious blend of rock and color. Warm yellows and oranges radiate from the deeply pigmented walls as scatterings of light illuminate the pale spires.
There is a sense of place here that goes beyond rocks. Some local Paiute Indians explained it with a legend. Once there lived animal-like creatures that changed themselves into people. But they were bad, so Coyote turned them into rocks of various configurations. The spellbound creatures still huddle together here with faces painted just as they were before being turned to stone.
How to Get There
From Zion NP (83 miles west), follow Utah 9 east, turn north on Utah 89, then continue east on Utah 12 to Utah 63, which is the park entrance road. From Capitol Reef NP (about 120 miles away), follow Utah 12 southwest to Utah 63. Airports: Salt Lake City, Utah or Las Vegas, Nevada.
When to Go
All-year park. Wildflowers peak in spring and early summer; the greatest variety of the park's 170 bird species appear between May and October. Winter lasts from November through March; snow highlights the colored cliffs and provides fine crosscountry skiing and snowshoeing.
How to Visit
On a 1-day visit, tour the Bryce Amphitheater, beginning, if possible, with sunrise at Bryce Point. If limited time requires choosing between the scenic drive or a walk beneath the rim, take the walk. On a longer stay, drive to Rainbow Point; consider a moonlight stroll among the hoodoos.
