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Seoul Recipe: Moo Jjim (Braised Rib and Radish Stew) Part of the Places of a Lifetime series from Traveler magazine

The city of Kaesong, just over the border in North Korea, proudly boasts a number of traditional recipes. This hearty, winter dish from Kaesong is analogous to a European stew. Cook it in advance, and freeze it for up to a month.

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Ingredients:

14 ounces Korean radish (or substitute a potato or sweet potato)
7 ounces galbi (beef rib)
1/4 chicken
5 ginkgo nuts
2 jujubes
3 shiitake mushrooms
5 chestnuts
10 pine nuts

Marinade:
6 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons clear rice wine
4 tablespoons chopped leeks
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 tablespoon ginger juice
1 teaspoon sesame seeds
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon sesame oil

Directions:

Cut the Korean radish into chestnut-size pieces, then par-boil it in boiling water for three minutes. Remove and put to one side. Peel the chestnuts and remove the skin from the ginkgos. (The easiest way to do this is to roast them in a dry pan until the skin browns, so when you put them on a clean, dry cloth and rub them gently, the skin comes off easily.)

Put the shiitake mushrooms in warm water for around 20 minutes. Then cut into chestnut-size chunks. Place the beef rib into very cold water to remove any blood. This will take about a half hour. Discard the water. Cut the chicken into chunks approximately the same size as the beef ribs. Then plunge them into boiling water to get rid of fat from the skin. Remove and set aside.

To make the marinade, put all the ingredients into a bowl and whisk with a spoon or small whisker. Put the rib and par-boiled chicken into a large bowl. Marinate in half the sauce for half an hour to two hours. Put the ribs into a cast iron pot then pour water in—just enough to cover the ribs. Bring to a boil. Add chicken. Turn down stove heat to medium, and simmer for 45 minutes. Pot must be covered with a lid.

Add the Korean radish and shiitake mushrooms to the pot and pour in the rest of the marinade. Simmer for another 15-25 minutes (the actual time depends on stove setting and thickness of pot). You will know when it is ready, as the radish will absorb the sauce and change color to a dark, rich brown. At this point, add the jujube and chestnuts. Simmer for another ten minutes. Then, bring the pot back to a boil, and add the ginkgo and pine nuts and boil for five minutes.

Serve. The dish is traditionally eaten with steamed rice, but a crusty baguette, a plate of polenta, or even a scoop of mashed potatoes work equally well.

Servings: Serves two

More Seoul Recipes:

Seoul Multimedia

Know Before You Go Seoul

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