"An immense protein factory," wrote Baltimorean H. L. Mencken of Chesapeake Bay. One of the world's greatest estuaries, the Chesapeake contains thousands of species, many threatened by agricultural runoff, sewage, and urban wastes. Baltimore, with its revitalized Inner Harbor, is a major seaport, ranking as the country's second port for foreign tonnage. The state capital of Annapolis, an East Coast sailing hub, preserves the nation's largest concentration of 18th-century buildings and is home to the U.S. Naval Academy. The Delmarva Peninsula draws pleasure seekers to its Ocean City boardwalk as well as to undeveloped beaches. Hilly western Maryland is still largely rural. Elsewhere commuter suburbs, interstate highways, and shopping malls share space with the Potomac River and the C & O Canal.