Tofino
Highway 4 leads right up to the First Street Dock in British Columbia's Tofino, a hamlet on Clayoquot Sound off Canada's west coast. Getting that far takes a ferry ride from Horseshoe Bay, followed by a three-hour drive into the mist, around hairpin curves, and through Pacific Rim National Park Reserve to the ocean. The payoff is more than worth the commute: remote surfing beaches, humpback and gray whales, black bears and bald eagles, and old-growth rain forests home to some trees thought to be one to two thousand years old. When an ancient red cedar falls, Nuu-chah-nulth master carvers ask the tree for permission before giving it new life as four dugout canoes. So when you paddle one on a T'ashii Paddle School guided canoe tour into the rain forest, remember to thank the tree.
When to Go: From October to February, storm watchers gather at waterfront lodges to watch the massive winter waves pound the coastline. In March, the Pacific Rim Whale Festival celebrates cetaceans with events in, on, and near the water: naturalist-led marine mammal and whale watch tours, storytelling and music highlighting the gray whale, and interpretive walks on the Tofino mudflats. August delivers the sunniest beach days. You won't have to go far to find a good beach spot. "Tonquin Park beach is almost in downtown Tofino, but you usually get the place all to yourself," says frequent visitor Jared Melvin. In November, the Oyster Festival showcases Clayoquot Sound's oysters, 8,000 to 9,000 of which are slurped down during the three-day event.
How to Get Around: Take a trip on the water taxi to Big Tree Trail on Meares Island or to Hot Springs Cove for a soak in the natural hot springs splashed by cool ocean waves. Floatplanes take you from the harbor to some of the more remote areas of Clayoquot Sound.
Where to Stay: Middle Beach Lodge, Wickanninish Inn, and Long Beach Lodge all offer spectacular views of the ocean during storm season. Camping is available in various campgrounds around town, in the national park, as well as on many of the more remote islets of the rugged coastline.
Where to Eat or Drink: Shelter gets its name from its mission—to get back to basics: food, wine, and shelter. All the ingredients are local (they even grow some vegetables and herbs in the garden out back), and the place is popular with local surfers. After a morning on the water, fill up on a steaming bowl of Meares Island chowder (house-smoked salmon, arctic surf clams, and Yukon gold potatoes) served with house bread. Join the line at the original orange Tacofino food truck, parked at a surf shop lot on Pacific Rim Highway. The "fast slow food" Baja fish and tuna tacos are made from scratch and wrapped tightly in foil, perfect for beach picnics.
What to Buy: Roy Henry Vickers expresses his respect for the area's natural beauty through his paintings, carvings, and original prints on sale at Eagle Aerie. The gallery is in a traditional longhouse, where Vickers regularly holds free storytelling sessions. Clayoquot Crafts sells Adirondack chairs made from red cedar logs felled by storms and salvaged from Clayoquot Sound.
What to Watch Before You Go: Several scenes in The Twilight Saga: New Moon (2009) were filmed at Tofino's South Beach (accessible via the 0.9-mile South Beach Trail from Wickaninnish Beach) inside Pacific Rim National Park Reserve.
Helpful Links: Tofino Tourism, Pacific Rim National Park
Fun Fact: Tofino's water temperature varies little across the seasons, going from a low of 48°F degrees in winter to a maximum of 59°F degrees in summer.
Go Further
Animals
- Octopuses have a lot of secrets. Can you guess 8 of them?
- Animals
- Feature
Octopuses have a lot of secrets. Can you guess 8 of them? - This biologist and her rescue dog help protect bears in the AndesThis biologist and her rescue dog help protect bears in the Andes
- An octopus invited this writer into her tank—and her secret worldAn octopus invited this writer into her tank—and her secret world
- Peace-loving bonobos are more aggressive than we thoughtPeace-loving bonobos are more aggressive than we thought
Environment
- Listen to 30 years of climate change transformed into haunting musicListen to 30 years of climate change transformed into haunting music
- This ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrificeThis ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrifice
- U.S. plans to clean its drinking water. What does that mean?U.S. plans to clean its drinking water. What does that mean?
- Food systems: supporting the triangle of food security, Video Story
- Paid Content
Food systems: supporting the triangle of food security - Will we ever solve the mystery of the Mima mounds?Will we ever solve the mystery of the Mima mounds?
History & Culture
- Strange clues in a Maya temple reveal a fiery political dramaStrange clues in a Maya temple reveal a fiery political drama
- How technology is revealing secrets in these ancient scrollsHow technology is revealing secrets in these ancient scrolls
- Pilgrimages aren’t just spiritual anymore. They’re a workout.Pilgrimages aren’t just spiritual anymore. They’re a workout.
- This ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrificeThis ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrifice
- This ancient cure was just revived in a lab. Does it work?This ancient cure was just revived in a lab. Does it work?
Science
- The unexpected health benefits of Ozempic and MounjaroThe unexpected health benefits of Ozempic and Mounjaro
- Do you have an inner monologue? Here’s what it reveals about you.Do you have an inner monologue? Here’s what it reveals about you.
- Jupiter’s volcanic moon Io has been erupting for billions of yearsJupiter’s volcanic moon Io has been erupting for billions of years
- This 80-foot-long sea monster was the killer whale of its timeThis 80-foot-long sea monster was the killer whale of its time
Travel
- How to plan an epic summer trip to a national parkHow to plan an epic summer trip to a national park
- This town is the Alps' first European Capital of CultureThis town is the Alps' first European Capital of Culture
- This royal city lies in the shadow of Kuala LumpurThis royal city lies in the shadow of Kuala Lumpur
- This author tells the story of crypto-trading Mongolian nomadsThis author tells the story of crypto-trading Mongolian nomads