The best places to stay in four price ranges: budget ($), moderate ($$), expensive ($$$), and luxury ($$$$)


The Cocker
“An expertly recycled mansion in one of the city’s most historic and atmospheric districts.”—Matt Chesterton, editor, Time Out Buenos Aires guidebook. Five-suite guesthouse in San Telmo kept in impeccable shape by English owners, who named the locale for their friendly dog Rocco. Lovely stay, especially for the price. Avenida Juan de Garay 458; tel. 54 11 4362 8461.

Mansion Dandi Royal
“Perfect for tango junkies, it’s a beautifully restored mansion in San Telmo, with its own tango dance studio.”—Brian Byrnes, co-author, Fodor’s Buenos Aires. Five floors of 30 rooms featuring glass-pane doors, period frescoes, tango channels, and tango music. Breakfast included. Pool, gym, and two outdoor patios. Piedras 922/936; tel. 54 11 4361 3537.

Ayres Porteños Hostel
This totally tango-theme hostel in the popular neighborhood of San Telmo is super economical, with about 100 beds in its 30 rooms. Peru 708; tel. 54 11 4300 7314.


Bobo Hotel and Restaurant
Restored home turned boutique hotel in the happening district of Palermo Soho, walking distance to the Plaza Serrano and many hot restaurants, bars, and shops. Each of its seven spacious rooms has a funky theme, design, and name, such as “pop,” “classic,” and “minimalist.” Guatemala 4882; tel. 54 11 4774 0505.

1555 Malabia House
“One of the first designer guesthouses in this ultra-hip barrio and still one of the best.”—Matt Chesterton. An urban bed-and-breakfast with 15 rooms housed in a former convent in the heart of Palermo Viejo (Old Palermo). Malabia 1555; tel. 54 11 4833 2410.

Grand Boulevard Hotel
In the center of everything, this moderately priced hotel features a sweeping view of the historic obelisk. Thick windows block out the noise from the roaring traffic on Avenida 9 de Julio. Bernardo de Irigoyen 432; tel. 54 11 5222 9000.

Castelar Hotel and Spa
Classic hotel with 151 rooms in the heart of downtown Buenos Aires opened in 1929, and was once frequented by writers such as Jorge Luis Borges and Spanish poet Federico García Lorca. Lots of dark wood, leather, and an old-style café take you back to another era. Avenida de Mayo 1152; tel. 54 11 4383 5000.

248 Finisterra
Cool and inexpensive boutique hotel in the super-hot Palermo neighborhood of Las Cañitas. Its 11 rooms are small, but elegantly furnished, with dark wood furniture and lots of Argentine leather; some overlook the vine-covered garden. Rates include breakfast, but the best part is the location. Báez 248; tel. 54 11 4773 0901.

Moreno Hotel
“Huge suites (up to 807 square feet [75 square meters]), the full gamut of gadgets (LCD TVs, fast Wi-Fi, etc.), and even a Berlin-in-the-’30s-style basement cabaret.”—Matt Chesterton. Thirty-nine “bedrooms” and lofts in a new boutique, art deco hotel in San Telmo. Onsite theater features tango and other live music. Moreno 376; tel. 54 11 6091 2000.


Marriott Plaza Hotel
“The grand dame of the city’s grand old hotels. You can feel the history in the walls of the 99-year-old building.”—Brian Byrnes. The recently renovated Marriott and many of its 320 elegant rooms overlook the San Martin Plaza in Retiro. Florida 1005; tel. 54 11 4318 3000.

Esplendor Boutique Hotel
“Sleekly designed…but warm and comfortable.”—Marcelo Ponozzo, co-editor, Guia Total Buenos Aires (Total Guide Buenos Aires). Classic French facade with a newly remodeled avant-garde interior; softly illuminated walls highlight local artists’ renderings of famous Argentines such as Evita Perón and Che Guevara. Features 51 rooms in a great downtown spot. San Martin 780; tel. 54 11 5256 8800.

“The designer patio and garden is probably the best place for an al fresco aperitif in BA.”—Matt Chesterton. Each distinctly decorated room includes plush mattresses and iPod connectors. Outdoor pool, small spa, and Resto Bar; loads of hip restaurants, shops, and bars nearby. Honduras 5860; tel. 54 11 4778 1008.


Alvear Palace Hotel
“It’s very classic, and it’s very close to everything in Recoleta.”—Michael Luongo, author, Frommer’s Buenos Aires. A gem in the heart of one of the most elite neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. Majestic lobby and immaculate 210 rooms—mostly newly remodeled suites—ooze Old World decadence. New, high-tech spa. Avenida Alvear 1891; tel. 54 11 4808 2100.

Faena Hotel and Universe
“You feel like you’re in the center of a parallel universe.”—Brian Byrnes, co-author, Fodor’s Buenos Aires. The beautiful and the famous like to see and be seen in this lush Puerto Madero hotel. French architect Phillipe Starck designs; lobby and room walls are lined with red velvet. The 110 rooms include great sunset views of the city, flat-screen televisions, and Egyptian cotton linens. Martha Salotti 445; tel. 54 11 4010 9000.

Four Seasons Hotel
“Those with a spare U.S. $10,000 should spend a couple of nights in the seven-suite mansion with its round-the-clock butler service.”—Matt Chesterton, editor, Time Out Buenos Aires guidebook. High-class, high-priced digs in a Belle Epoque mansion with 138 guestrooms and 27 suites in Recoleta. Posadas 1086; tel. 54 11 4321 1200.


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