Photo: A town with a bridge and river

Mostar's Ottoman bridge is a hopeful link between Croats and Muslims on opposite sides.

Photograph by Robert Everts/Getty Images

The shattering interethnic violence that came hard on the heels of the dissolution of the former Yugoslavia, sadly, is what comes to mind for many contemplating this ancient land of soaring mountains, steep valleys, and plunging Adriatic coastline. • Peace in hand, Bosnians have returned to their old ways—generous, engaging, and welcoming. • A visitor to the capital, Sarajevo, will find fine dining and good shopping at great prices. • From the seaside to the mountains, despite the obvious vestiges of war, this land offers an endless tableau of spectacular scenery.

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