Photo: Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock

Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock is where Muhammad is believed to have ascended to heaven.

Photograph by Annie Griffiths Belt

Ben-Gurion, Moshe Dayan, Golda. • The Six-Day War, the Yom Kippur War, Entebbe. • News from this ancient land, bounded on the west by the Mediterranean, the north and east by Lebanon, Syria, and Jordan, seldom arrives uncolored by contention. • A mere hour's drive takes a visitor from the bustling seaside cafes of Tel Aviv up through battle-scarred hills to the hushed streets and holy places of Jerusalem. • Small in size only, the Jewish state exudes energy at every turn, with history, religion, and politics running like a live current through every facet of daily life.

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